Monday, November 18, 2013

First Impressions of Peru

Hi, guys! Mrs. Done by Forty and I are safely here in Lima, which is bigger and faster-paced than I was imagining. We were trying to think about which American city we think Lima is the most like, and the closest we could come to was Los Angeles...at rush hour. It's a coastal city with temperatures that, at least now, fluctuate between a low in the 60s at night and highs in the 70s during the day. But with all the buildings, traffic, and constant honking, you wouldn't know there was a tranquil ocean within walking distance most of the time. It's a tricky city to get your arms around because it just keeps going: walk and walk and you just see more city. We're kind of smaller city folk. So while it's great to visit Lima and we are having a great time being together again, I don't think it's a place we'd want to retire. Lima is exciting, but it's also kind of scary at times. Here are some random tidbits:

  • Riding in cabs here has already resulted in more near accidents in two days than I've experienced my entire life to this point. Now, I should mention that I am a cautious driver and I do feel a bit of anxiety if I am sitting in the passenger seat with anyone I don't think is cautious enough, so perhaps it's all in my head. But despite the biases in my perception, I feel like this cannot be true. There are no rules of the road here other than "don't get hit". Drivers weave in and out of their lanes, or just drive in two lanes simultaneously, with the white lines being more "guidelines" than anything else. Fitting three cars in two lanes at 40 mph? No problem. Why come to a stop at an intersection when you can slow down a bit, honk your horn a few times to allow those with the right of way that you're about to endanger their lives, and then just fly through oncoming traffic? Why wait to merge when you can just cut off a driver while honking at them repeatedly? Want to throw it into reverse while cars are approaching? Go for it. Just honk first. The horn here seems to be a way to alert everyone that you're about to put them in danger, so even if they have the right of way, they should back off...now.
  • As terrifying as riding in cabs is, being a pedestrian seems almost as dangerous. The strategy everyone employs is to simply step in front in traffic, usually in a pack, and hope that cars don't hit you. Waiting for a clearing in traffic is, clearly, for suckers. Twice now, cars have come within a foot of me when crossing the road since, as I noted earlier, stopping at intersections is somewhat optional. Mrs. Done by Forty is already used to this pedestrian experience and thinks that it is cute that I want to wait for the speeding, ever-lane-changing, don't-really-stop-at-an-intersection cars to pass me before crossing the street. She just goes for it, and I don't know if I am being smart or wimpy.
  • On the plus side, Mrs. Done by Forty found a cool little hostel/hotel in Miraflores (a kind of nicer, touristy area in Lima) where we got a suite for $80 a night. It's large by Peruvian hotel standards (and the bedroom is bigger than ours at home), with a little living room, kitchen and table for two. It's a good deal compared to what we could find on Orbitz (everything seemed to be from $85 up to $190 or higher) or even airBNB (we found one tin studio for $55 a night, but just about everything else was $80 or more). They also have a simple-but-free breakfast each morning of coffee, cocoa leaf tea, rolls, jam, fruit, and cheese. We love the hotel. Due to the painfully slow internet connection, it's hard to upload pictures...but here is one. We are the room on the corner of the third floor:

  • There is an odd bathroom custom here: because of low water pressure, you can't flush toilet paper in Peruvian toilets. After being um, used, it must be placed in a wastebasket. It is taking some getting used to but, so far, so good. At least as good as can be expected.
  • To make sure I spend as little time on said toilet as possible, I am only drinking bottled water and avoiding any raw fruits or vegetables that would have been washed in water and then served. So, I can't eat a salad, but can eat a banana, or any other fruit or veggie as long as I cut off the skin. Again, so far, so good. But please say a prayer for my sensitive American stomach. 
  • We're spending a couple days trying to export soil and plant samples that Mrs. Done by Forty has been trying to get exported out of the country for over a year, for an article she is hoping to publish. Part of the problem is that last year Mrs. Done by Forty found someone willing to leave the boxes of samples in their home, which was awesome, but couldn't get them to the UPS office. The larger issue is trying to navigate the mess of international red tape, and figuring out which permits (US and Peruvian) are actually needed to send them out. After a couple cab rides, we now have the boxes in our room and will go down to UPS today and see if we can put this old problem to bed.
  • Lima is probably the most expensive city in Peru, so cabs and eating out are eating a bit into the budget. Add in the fact that we only changed about $60 at the airport (to get a better exchange rate in town) to Nuevo Soles (the Peruvian currency), along with the sad realization that all the exchange places were closed on Sunday, and we were running pretty low on Soles come Sunday night. So, we got to play our favorite game: Can We Afford to Eat Dinner Tonight? We counted out all our exchanged money and had about 58 Soles ($20.71), mostly in change. A lot of restaurants were out of budget so, instead, we went to a Peruvian supermarket and it was pretty awesome. Packed with people and full of different foods, going to the market is one of the things I really like doing when I travel. I like seeing how people buy their food, what different foods they enjoy to eat, and what it costs. Wine, especially wine from California, was overpriced. We saw Barefoot, typically a $5 or $7 bottle, for 32 Soles (about $11.50). It just got more expensive from there. But fruits, vegetables, bread, and meat were all a pretty good deal. We made a small dinner that somehow ended up being mostly carbs and sweets (I'm looking at you, Mrs. Done by Forty) for under $15, including a bottle of champagne and some fresh juice for mimosas. Here's a picture of our haul:


Here is a quick grocery breakdown, for those who like that sort of thing:
  • Two guargueros (a caramel filled desert): 4.60 Soles ($1.64)
  • Flan (Crema Volteada): 4.39 Soles ($1.58)
  • One Cherimoya: 3.43 Soles ($1.23)
  • One Plantain: 0.59 Soles ($0.21)
  • One Baguette: 0.99 Soles ($0.35)
  • One bottle of (not-great) Peruvian Champagne: 16.00 Soles ($5.71)
  • One litre of Orange, Mango, and Maracuya juice blend:  7.79 Soles ($2.78)
  • 2.5 litres of bottle water: 2.65 Soles ($0.96)
  • Total: 40.50 Soles ($14.46...and no tax!)
Well, we're off to try to ship these boxes and then the plan is to trek to Barranco, what's supposed to be a bohemian coastal suburb of Lima. My mission today is to eat as much ceviche as possible without getting sick. Wish us luck!

44 comments:

  1. Good luck your on mission ;) Glad you finally got to reunite with the Mrs. and hope you have a fantastic trip!

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    1. Hi Alexa! The mission was a success. Tons of raw fish eaten, and so far it's staying down. Still, it's only about midnight so maybe I shouldn't be claiming victory just yet. :)

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  2. Thanks for the write-up! I enjoyed reading about your experiences so far. Good luck becoming an expert traffic-dodger!

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    1. Thanks, Kali! Yeah, I got a bit more practice today. I am feeling a bit more confident simply stepping into the street...and that may or may not be a great thing.

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  3. Great recap! I'm so like you when it comes to eating foods that are...questionable on the stomach. And a lot of places I've stayed in Costa Rica don't let you flush paper too. Kind of icky but when in Rome. Also it seems standard for people in Central and South America to drive absolutely insane! I feared for my life in CR many times. Cute place you're staying in!

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    1. Thanks, Tonya! It feels oddly better to know this is a pretty common thing...both the crazy driving and the toilet paper custom. Like you said, when in Rome. :)

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  4. Good to hear you've arrived safely.

    Lima sounds like an experience! Have fun! :)

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    1. Hi Laura. Yep, Lima is definitely that. I am hoping that Ecuador is a different change of pace.

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  5. Still pretty cheap by New Zealand standards! :) Surprised to hear your comparison of Lima to LA .. .eep. Enjoy!

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    1. Yeah, I shouldn't complain. Lima's still pretty cheap, our room price aside. We do get a 5% discount if we pay in cash but, there are some fees for taking cash out, too...it's a bit of a wash.

      As for the comparison to LA, it's not a great one but probably the best we could come up with.

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  6. I have a friend who lives in Lima, and I can't wait to go there. Lima and Machu Pichu are on my travel list.

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    1. Hi there, Savvy Financial Latina (SFL?). Machu Pichu is on my list, too, but it'll have to wait until we come back next spring.

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  7. Lima sounds like NYC, too. I always hold my breath during taxi rides. I would never want to drive there. The prices seem decent! The picture of the hotel is really cute.

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    1. Thanks, EM! Yeah, the prices really aren't too bad. We were thinking NYC from a driving perspective, too. :)

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  8. I am always a bit surprised by the lack of traffic laws being enforced in other countries. My brother said the same thing happens in rural areas of China near where his wife's family lives. I guess the police have better things to do? I know that pedestrian deaths are no laughing matter though.

    Your dinner looks delightful. Hope you were able to get some cash! Were there no ATMs at banks in Lima that you could have gotten cash out with, or is that a bad idea? I used ATMS for my currency exchanging when I was in Europe but I also have a no-fee for outside ATMs bank.

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    1. Hi Tara,
      We thought about banks but they were all closed on Sunday and I didn't like the idea of an ATM on the street. I went to a money change establishment today while the missus was working with the samples, and got a few hundred changed.

      As for the traffic, I will say that for all the craziness I've yet to see an actual accident yet. There seems to be a method to the madness.

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  9. I'm so pleased that you're now reunited with Mrs DB40 again! It's been great reading about life in Peru, this is now on my list of destinations to visit one day. The hotel looks lovely - the toilets sound interesting! I'm definitely saying a prayer for your stomach!

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    1. Thanks, Hayley! If you want to visit Peru, the missus recommends Cuzco and Arequipa as well. I'll get to check those cities out next spring, and will try to squeeze a blog post or three out of the visit. :)

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  10. Haha, the driving does not surprise me one bit! Just close your eyes and pretend you're on a rollercoaster. I'm glad that the reunion with the Mrs is a success so far and I hope you have a great rest of the trip. =)

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    1. I probably should've taken your advice, Mrs. Pop, and just looked at the back of the driver's head, instead of the chaos happening around us. I'll remember that for the ride back to the airport. Thanks for the well wishes!

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  11. Your Peru experience sounds scarily similar to our Costa Rican experience. From the terrifying cab rides to the fun toilet paper customs to the experience of shopping in the supermarket. I'm not much of a world traveler so it all felt very strange and fun. This post really makes me nostalgic.

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    1. Costa Rica sounds like a pretty cool place to visit, Matt. I'm not much of a world traveler either, but I'm trying to change that. :)

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  12. Thanks for the great travelogue about Lima. I enjoy reading about other cultures. I hope things go well with you and your wife for the rest of your trip. I can't wait to read more.

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    1. Thanks, Bryce. We have another few posts in the works. To be honest, I'm worried people will get bored hearing about our little trip...we'll have to see. :)

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  13. It is fun reading your post, more like a travelogue. The hotel looks so nice, (well at least to me because I love anything with plants) looking like home than a hotel. Oh, by the way, consider the prayer request for that sensitive stomach done. Trust me when I say I can totally relate. :)

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    1. I really appreciate your prayer, Jen. So far, so good! We're enjoying the trip and the hotel, too.

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  14. That hotel looks really charming! I am surprised to see that prices in that supermarket were at least equal to what we have in Romania, if not a bit more expensive (as I thought that Peru was cheaper). However, that baguette for 35 cents would've cost in Romania close to $1 :)

    Glad to see you're having a good time, despite the fact that you can't risk it with the fruits and vegetables!

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    1. Hi C. Yeah, Lima is pretty pricey as far as South America goes, I think. But when we're in Ecuador, we should be able to live pretty cheaply.

      Thanks for the kind words!

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  15. Sounds like you guys are having a good time. Yes, the low pressure toilets in many Latin American countries did take some getting used to. Pretty cool that you guys did well with the game "Can we afford dinner tonight?" I love the pic of the supermarket.

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    1. Thanks for the comment, Andrew. We've gone into a couple more supermarkets and have wondered why we enjoy doing that so much. I think it's a weird pf quirk. :)

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  16. I don't think I have ever read about Lima before. How interesting. I just assumed it was a small city. Funny that Budget and the Beach said 'when in Rome'. When I was in Rome in college, they told us to just step out in to the street, stare at the drivers and show no fear! The traffic reminds me of the border cities that I have been to in Mexico, Tijuana and Nogales. I can't watch. It's too scary! As for the toilet tissue problem, I learned that trick from living in an RV park. Some people who live in RV's full time don't want to risk throwing it down the toilet because it tends to clog up the tanks and cleaning the holding tanks is no fun. I hope you make it out without any stomach issues!

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    1. Hi Daizy. Your comment about RVs makes sense...less paper, less plumbing problems. I think I'm getting a lot more comfortable with the traffic here, too. I'm starting to just walk into the street and trust that I won't get hit. We'll see how that works out. :)

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  17. I was surprised at how big Lima was when we got there. And it just sprawls. We didn't make it to Barranco (the Larcomar and Av Larco, wowza, were the furthest south/east we got) but made it to the Inka Market which was neat (except I got stung by a bee while we were eating in a cafe). We thoroughly enjoyed the Monastery of San Francisco and seeing the crypts (So many bones! A must see); it is a beautiful place (above-ground..)! We got a private tour as we were the only English-speakers for the English tour. The Cathedral of Lima, only two blocks away, was stunning. We then went to the Museo Larco which lets you see their actual collections of ancient pottery (thousand upon thousands, which are usually hidden away safely in many other museums) and the terraces alone were just..again, beautiful. They also have the exotic pottery exhibit in another section of the museum which I highly recommend (our reason for going in the first place). We bought a souvenir, a replica of one of the exotic pieces, and adore it. Lastly, we went to Huaca Pucllana and had another semi-private tour of the dig itself in the heart of the city. I think there are 4 dig sites; while this was not the largest, it was closest to our hotel and therefore within walking distance (because yes, the taxis are such a death gamble). We greatly miss Peru, both Lima and the Jungle. If you have a chance, I definitely recommend going into the Jungle for a few days and nights. I'm glad you made it there safely, and eagerly await further stories! (ps: Isn't the Wong fantastic? Fruits we've never even heard of before, everyone wearing masks while working with the food.. Their chocolate selection just blew my mind, and our wallet.)

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    1. All great tips, Jamie. Thanks so much. We're heading to the city center tomorrow and will be checking out a lot of the places you mentioned. I really like old churches so those are on the list. :)

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  18. So glad to hear you made it safe and sound, and mmm ceviche!! Thanks for sharing some insider knowledge on getting around and how much everything costs. Do most restaurants accept credit cards? I can understand if mom and pops don't, but do the others? Hope you have fun and that hotel is sooo cute!!

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    1. Hi Anna! We see that some of the restaurants do accept credit cards, but it's a bit of a crap shoot for which ones (Some are only Visa & Diners Club, some are only Amex & Visa, etc.) We've yet to actually use the card as we brought some cash to exchange (seemed cheaper to do that than to incur the % fee, and we don't know the rate the card will give us).

      We got 2.78 Nuevo Soles/Dollar and even a fancy dinner (for us) with drinks is coming to less than 100 Soles ($40).

      It turns out though that instead of there being no sales tax, there is actually an 18% sales tax (IGV) that's baked into everything...you just don't see it. It's good to know it's there, I guess. The only thing you get to avoid it on is on the cost of your room itself: tourists are exempt.

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  19. So glad you two are having a great time! Miss you both. Keep kicking ass. Also, you're being wimpy. Just step out there.

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    1. Ha! You got it. Mrs. DB40's bravery is rubbing off on me. Half the time I'm the one pulling her into the intersection now.

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  20. The toliet paper thing, and the traffic thing is pretty true for many developing nations (and Greece!). The TP one isn't an issue, rather than habit breaking. Seriously, I've smelt worse bathrooms due to aim issues, than paper in a bin! I think cause it dries out fast.

    I'm just back from Vietnam with crazy traffic, but there were usually some smallish breaks to head for, thanks to traffic lights!

    Oh and don't be too scared of fruit, most of it's ok, imo!

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    1. Hi Sarah,

      Vietnam sounds like a fantastic place to visit. Asia is on our list, for sure. It's good to know the traffic dodging skills I'm picking up here will translate. :)

      I'm taking your advice and trying to be braver with the fruit. Though I'm still not brave enough to try a salad...

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  21. Re-reading your Puruvians posts :) Great info that I will be sure to take with me!

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    1. Great! Send me an email if there are any questions I can help with, and enjoy your killer trip around South America!

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  22. Hi Done by Forty,
    I realized that your problem with that toilet is a common practice not just in South America, here in Asia too, we do that, put the toilet paper in the wastecan or as you call it wastebasket.. and yup low pressure toilets wont be able to flush a lot of toilet papers, it will surely clog... anyway, i do think you are or will be used to it ... glad you are okay...

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